High Peak Loop Offers Contrasts
The wind howled fierce and cold across Baptie Lake, at 10,000 feet our highest and coldest campsite on a nine-day loop in the Pioneer Mountains (Pioneers).
All day we hiked in warm garb through snowy wonderland—after a storm brought a preview of winter in early September. Chased out of Moose Lake basin by a wild thunderstorm, we made camp along Falls Creek in driving rain and the next morning woke to a skiff of snow everywhere. After chilled hiking on long switchbacks up the sunless north slope above Falls Creek, we topped out in high alpine Surprise Valley with enough sunshine by a small tarn to dry out gear and boil water for breakfast in rocks sheltered from high winds.
We slogged up the boggy valley and climbed steeply (on surprisingly good switchbacks blasted out of the rock) to windy Standhope Pass at 11,000 feet, descended through giant boulders (some dislodged by summers’ earthquakes) to Betty Lake (where fish followed lure but would not bite).
Next, we climbed small pass to Goat Lake already shadowed and so cold the fish weren’t moving (and fishing-line came back ice-coated), then dropped down to Baptie Lake. I looked for potential campsites along the lake and among stunted trees on flats above—seeking a site sheltered from escalating wind gusts. Many campsites, no windbreaks. We settled for a campsite right above the lake with giant fire circle (ring) and log “benches” as windbreak for my finicky stove.
After dinner, David burned our garbage into bonfire devouring partly charred logs in the fire circle—it danced high and wide, but in the strong wind gusts, provided minimal warmth as we also danced at its edge, not daring to come too close to the erratic flames. (Be assured we dumped lots of water on the embers at bedtime and the next morning).
Just two days earlier we were sweaty hiking road out of Wildhorse Basin. We were continually dusted by passing jeeps, Universal Terrain Vehicles (UTVs), and motorcycles of restless Labor Day refugees from “dispersed camps” on every flat area or spur off the Wildhorse road.
Pioneer Mountains (Pioneers) include prominent ridgeline of iconic peaks up to 12,000-feet elevation; popular for peak-bagging, day hikes, and hunting, yet isolated if more than half a day from main trailheads. Lying within Wilderness Study Area (WSA) on two national forests, they were excluded from 2018 Idaho wilderness act.
Pioneers are long-time favorite for short hikes due to close proximity to David’s extended-family farm in southern Idaho. Now they are a day’s walk or half hour drive from our house in Hailey. Our Hailey-Craters Trek passed through southern part of Pioneer WSA.
This narrative and map cover backpacking trips in Pioneer WSA in 2020, 2017, and 1987.
Our September 2020 9-day visit was grand finale that looped around Pioneers’ highest peaks in one continuous trip. We followed the Standhope Ultra Challenge trail-running race route on eastside. On westside we followed previously hiked routes, roads, and trails. A route up Big Basin and over ridge to East Fork Wood River was considered but not developed; we hiked road instead.
Crossing Little Wood River was a piece of cake with 50% below normal flow after summer drought, but it can be risky in high flow years. We used the U.S. Geological Survey real-time gauging station (link below) about 20 miles downstream to judge water depth.
Visit statistics (for three high country trips combined): 17 days, 155 miles, and 575 feet per mile average elevation change.
Go to map below for more information on trailheads, daily routes, mileages, elevation changes, and photos. (Click on white box in upper right corner to expand map and show legend with NAVIGATION INSTRUCTIONS.)
From hot and dusty to cold and snowy, solitude to mobs, and steep scrabbly elk routes to road hikes—our latest visit to the lofty Pioneers was a series of contrasts.
Heading north from hot sagebrush country of Southern Idaho, the Pioneers are the first of the seemingly endless rows of peaks and ridges in Central Idaho. Driving up Highway 75, you see a triad of jagged peaks called the Trifecta or Triumvirate: Cobb, Old Hyndman, and 12,000-foot Hyndman Peak. The Pioneer skyline (usually visible from much of Snake River Plain except during recent 21st century forest-fire smoke) fueled David’s alpine dreams as a teenager driving tractors back and forth across fields on the family farm north of Jerome, Idaho.
Returning to Jerome for family visits, we often took a day trip to the Pioneers only 70 miles away. Now living in nearby Hailey (50 miles closer), we often visit their lower reaches in the winter on cross-country skis.
Previous High Peaks Hikes
In 1987, our first Pioneers backpacking trip (mapped below) was delayed by a visit to the ER in Jerome after I cut my thumb with a knife making breakfast. A long wait, butterfly closure, and we drove up Highway 75 to ogle the Triumvirate, leaving our one-year-old daughter with Grandma on the farm. After that, our two short loops from East Fork Wood River and Hyndman Creek went fairly smoothly.
I was a bit freaked out clambering up washed out trail to Johnstone Pass, but the short loop down to and along Little Wood River impressed us with giant Douglas-fir above verdant pinegrass before the steep return over PK Pass. Our second loop began at North Fork Hyndman Creek Trailhead. We saw crowds headed for Pioneer Cabin but forked right to hike into (then) obscure alpine Big Basin (right below the Triumvirate) to camp; next we looped back on old trail along base of Hyndman and Handwerk Peaks connecting to the North Fork Hyndman Creek Trail to Pioneer Cabin.
In 2017 we did two Pioneer backpack trips. First was a May attempt at our Hailey-Craters Trek thwarted by an impassable Little Wood River crossing, icy snow, and high creeks after a record winter snowfall.
The second 2017 trip in July (mapped below) circled Grays Peak to check out the Little Wood later in summer and higher in the basin to see if it was now safe to cross. It wasn’t.
“Perched on granite, far above the Little Wood, I knew the river would win again,” I began my newspaper outdoors article describing our crossing attempts. I referred to day 2 of this trip as we hiked high above the river on the Upper Little Wood River Trail. We had started at Federal Gulch, contoured along Gray’s Peak, and descended to the lightly used river trail (where skids in the mud showed the only recent user was a motorcycle, technically illegal in a WSA). Seeing the raging river in narrow canyon below, we weren’t surprised to find high water at the crossing.
We finished our loop over PK Pass, with a challenging crossing of the East Fork torrent and a hike back to Federal Gulch on road closed to vehicles due to plugged culverts, avalanches, and flooding, remnant of the snowy winter.
2020 Loop: Hot, Steep, High and Dry—to Start
In September 2020, conditions were exactly the opposite of 2017. After a mostly snowless winter and a mostly dry summer (the only storm dominated our Hailey-Craters Trek), the rivers had record-low flows and soils were dry. Smoke from western fires in California and Oregon made for hazy skies the first few days of the trip. I hated the slippery steep trails, but we found ample water for camping throughout our trip.
Our September 2020 trip fulfilled a long-term ambition to loop completely around the highest east-west ridge of the Pioneers. In 9 days we covered 87 miles and 44,000 feet total elevation gain/loss. We had a few mishaps including:
- Delays the first day (difficulty hanging a “bear-bag” near Federal Gulch Campground with last day’s food and shoes for road walk) found us sliding down dry steep, Johnson Creek Trail to camp after dark on Corral Creek, first water after ridge trail.
- Shucking my heavy backpack so David could carry it down a particularly steep drop, I lost control and dropped it on my hiking pole, breaking it at the joint—luckily, David’s duct-tape stick-splint fix held for the whole trip (he also somewhat patched a water bottle punctured in the fall.)
- A route we’d forged in 2016 (to cross north end of Pioneers) with light packs over a ridge on old trail and/or elk path was much harder and slower with heavy packs (9 days’ food).
- Clambering up and down steep passes over three days—knowing that 52 trail runners covered the same distance in 6-15 hours for the July Standhope Ultra Challenge race!
- Crossing Betty Creek on a log, stepping on what looked like dry rock to avoid an icy section, I slipped and fell backwards on tailbone onto rocks in creek.
But there were also pleasing highlights: grouse strolling the trails, chattering black squirrels, elk herd ahead on our ridge route, high pitched challenge of two bulls ringing through the river canyon, and glorious solitude every night—despite hordes and hunters near every trailhead.
Backpackers are rare in the Pioneers. After a few hikers on first day near Pioneer Cabin, we saw no one in Corral Creek, Wilson Creek, or Right Fork Kane Creek basins.
We met dozens of Labor Day weekend hikers and vehicles on access routes to Kane Lake, Boulder Lake and Wildhorse Basin—but crossing passes in between, we saw no one. At end of the holiday weekend we saw returning day hikers near trailheads and two returning backpackers; also an excited bowhunter and son who had watched bugling elk from above in the predawn hours—until wind changed, elk detected the hunters and disappeared.
We were alone for rest of trip until we reached road—other than cattle that trashed the basins and trail below Baptie Lake. A set of footprints in snow near Betty Lake, signs of horses tethered in grove of withered trees, and a smoldering campfire near a trail junction indicated recent visitors. (Campers built fire under dense spruce and failed to realize it was burning underground on dead tree root; David spent time dousing the fire and called the Forest Service to report it when we got out.) We took steep trail over White Mountain, leaving cattle at a divide that serves as boundary between counties and national forests (Challis and Sawtooth).
Map showed no trail from divide down but we found a steep heavily used one on Pot Creek. A “spike camp” (canvas tent) in an upper meadow indicated trail perhaps maintained by local outfitter. Further down we joined an established trail but lost it in a maze of elk and possibly outfitter routes near the river. Finally, we saw big canvas tents below and dropped down to the outfitter camp near the river which looked ready for fall hunters although no one was there. We caught river trail through old burn, crossed ankle deep Little Wood, and continued on scenic trail above the river. Heavy boot tracks indicated hunters had been tramping up and down the river trail recently.
After camp above the river, we took Iron Creek Trail up steep grind over PK Pass and the switchbacks down to East Fork Wood River. We were surprised to find river dry at the crossing and postponed plans for a bath. Hiking down the road, we met vehicles, many with out-of-state licenses and occupants dressed for evening bow-hunting. The river was running again a mile down the road; we dropped into a still-sunny creekside meadow for our first wash-up in eight days. Road hike to Federal Gulch Campground was uneventful and our hard-to-hang bear bag was still up—although it may have dropped a bit, in high winds from storm front that gave us snow days earlier; there were newly fallen trees along the road and in campground.
After last night camp (and interesting dinner provisions from bear bag), we hiked road for 8 miles to retrieve our vehicle, then drove back to Federal Gulch to take down camp. The campground had several hunter camps including an elaborate one from Utah with semi-size trailer which apparently transported a huge canvas tent, lawn chairs, coolers, and UTVs. We left our vehicle on roadside and hiked down river to strike our modest tent camp just beyond the campground. When we returned, we found an unwanted 2020 political sticker pasted on our bumper—a reminder of why we prefer the roadless solitude of the Pioneers to civilization.
(Click upper right box above map to “view larger map” to see legend including NAVAGATION INSTRUCTIONS; expand/contract legend by clicking right arrow down/up)