Three Ridges & Priest: humbling start on Virginia wilderness
It seemed like an easy start.
To launch our project to visit all Virginia wilderness, we chose a loop through the Priest and Three Ridges, mostly on the Appalachian Trail (AT) and not too far from home in Falls Church. We figured we’d pick off this 30-mile loop in a couple of days.
So I was surprised at first day’s end to be clambering long switchbacks up The Priest Mountain by headlamp, only 11 miles hiked and 2 miles left to camp on ridge. With many hikers, humidity, staggering elevation changes (almost 700 feet per mile) bugs and a personal cloudburst—our first official Virginia wilderness visit was humbling.
This post includes visits to five wilderness areas in the central Blue Ridge region: the semi-disastrous (but successful) Priest loop and a nicer visit to three more areas in 2014.
Virginia Wilderness Project covered visits to 24 Virginia wilderness areas.
Posts on wilderness visits are organized by physiographic region.
This post covers 3 visits to 5 wilderness areas in central Blue Ridge Region: (1) Three Ridges & Priest in August 2012, and in June 2014 (2) Saint Mary’s and (3) James River Face & Thunder Ridge.
All but Saint Mary’s are bisected and primarily accessed by the Appalachian Trail.
Visits totaled 7 days to hike 80 miles, and average elevation change was 550 feet per mile.
See map below for detailed routes, mileages, elevation changes, and photos.
It was a hot August day. Three Ridges provided views of the Blue Ridge Mountains and The Priest soaring out of Tye River drainage below—plus a bee attack (appropriately) on Bee Mountain, encounters with many hikers and joggers, and lots of ups and downs. Dog-tired after the long drop to the river, I abandoned my fantasy of camping at Priest Shelter and was ready for the first flat spot. At Tye River, we passed a group packing up to hit trail. As we climbed, we saw lights below, gaining on us. David rejected one sketchy campsite on a drainage just off the trail. Perhaps the competition stopped here as the lights stopped.
At 10 p.m. we found a camp spot on a ridge near a rock outcrop. We ate a snack and crawled into the tent. Still hot: the warm clothes I packed were extra weight. Above us a ghostly light—someone on top. Rain started in wee hours, providing steamy fog for morning slog up rocky ridge. On top a nice flat and used campsite—maybe last night’s light. Gentle descent to Priest Shelter by verdant meadow and creek. Register full of southbound hikers’ “confessions” to “the Priest” of cursing the steep ascent. After a gentle mile on AT we left wilderness and encountered camp with truck, jeep, two big tents, lawn chair sitters and loud country music. We continued outside wilderness on Crabtree Falls Trail along creek glissading over 2,500-foot descent in five separate falls. A huge viewing platform over top falls was choked with people. Maybe 150 hikers on way down. At bottom we started hiking road down river to AT but a kindly couple with grandkids gave us a ride for four miles.
Mau-Har Trail return loop climbed ridge then plummeted 1500 feet into Campbell Creek. On descent we were hit by sudden downpour. David’s camera on top pack-pocket was not in plastic and ruined. Hard rain persisted as we scrambled route along slippery rock outcrops above the falls and pools of the creek. It diminished for our hike in open forest to deserted Maupin Field Shelter. We were so wet we abandoned plans of camping there, donned dry clothes and soon began the rocky descent to Reeds Gap in the dark.
Despite a beautiful sunset, I accumulated curses for my next confession to The Priest.
Saint Mary’s: a convenient washout in mining country
Our first visit was an overnight hike in early April 2004 on gentle road along the Saint Mary’s River, short hike up Sugartree Branch and camp on a beautiful green flat strewn with old mining machinery. We took brief out-and-back hike to Blue Ridge Parkway. Trails were good, air chilly and we were the only visitors.
Quite a change in June 2014. The river road had washed out—according to the Forest Service sign, victim of Hurricane Isabel in 2003 (somehow washouts occurred after our 2004 visit). Several day hikers joined us negotiating extra crossings and brushy social trail to the falls.
Sugartree Branch Trail required clambering over logs and pushing through heavy boughs of blooming Mountain laurel and rhododendrons. Along the creek were 30-foot towering rhododendron “trees” in full blossom and fringe trees with white flowers. Up trail from the mine site, we dropped packs on pine-needle carpeted flat created by old roadbed; and hiked to east boundary, past junction for Mine Branch Trail where we saw several hikers hiking out. With river trail washed out, this apparently is now the favorite access route. On the ridge we saw a sign for Big Levels / Bald Mountain jeep road which follows ridge outside wilderness, and a nice campsite on Green Pond—a marshy bog. We bounced down to packs for camp and a serenade by a whip-poor-will with echo from another bird down on Saint Mary’s River.
Next day we checked out the only other trail in the wilderness: Cellar Mountain with nice kiosk at trailhead. Our 1990 Forest Service wilderness map showed loop trip possibility with a Cold Spring Branch Trail departing near trailhead but we only found an old roadbed obliterated by downed logs and brush. Decent trail climbed steeply to ridge but was hard to follow as it contoured through oak and mountain laurel blooms. A nice campsite on a saddle just east of Cellar Mountain a good rest break. We skipped the Cellar climb and slowly covered 1.5 miles brushy trail up and down a little ridge to open parking lot; terminus of Bald Mountain road and sign for Green Pond. We found unmarked Cold Spring Branch trail in brush.
Cold Spring Branch trail crosses two sections of private land so it is not signed nor maintained, a Forest Service official said. He also said Saint Mary’s River trail will not be restored, to discourage the “party crowd” from using the area.
James River Face & Thunder Ridge: confusing trails thwart loop
Confusion, crowds and sometimes solitude marked our June 2014 visit to two adjacent wilderness areas south of James River. Our 3-day loop began at Balcony Falls Trail (named for falls on James River, not viewable from the trail) near hamlet of Natural Bridge. After driving by chaotic Jellystone Park Camp Resort, we were glad to head for public land and wilderness. Trip started at a beautiful grassy trailhead with a confusing trail kiosk. After camp near trailhead, we wound up old road to meet Appalachian Trail (AT), no other hikers but many ticks. At a saddle with spur trail to Marble Spring we found and extinguished a smoldering fire. Once on AT, met many hikers. Where AT crossed road at Petit Gap, we made a brief “out and back” hike into Thunder Ridge Wilderness for rocky outcrop views. Then went down Petit road to trail marked by sign with horse drawing; camped in Thunder Ridge Wilderness just off a washed out, brushy, log-jammed trail.
Next day we took roaring Elk Creek down to road out of wilderness with network of (people-made) “social trails.” We took day hike up Belfast Trail climbing steeply to meet many people, some with Jellystone t-shirts and sandals or thongs. The attraction? Devil’s Marble Yard, a big white scree (boulder field of sandstone) slope with people posted on many boulders. Above it, a gentle creek trail wound its way to Gunter Ridge. I now wished I had brought my backpack up the grade to hike over ridge in wilderness and down gentle switchbacks closer to the trailhead.
Instead we wound our way on non-wilderness road above subdivisions to a confusing horse trailhead. With no signs, we dropped down to main road which we followed to trailhead. Almost back, we saw a connecting trail and realized we could have taken the old road/trail back.
The Forest Service said Internet blogs have popularized Devils Marbleyard. With a small parking lot at trailhead, cars line the narrow forest road or park illegally on private property. But Forest Service doesn’t want to build a larger lot because this area of wilderness is already overused.
- Google Earth map (kmz)
- No GPS track-data collected
(Click upper right box above map to “view larger map” to see legend including NAVAGATION INSTRUCTIONS; expand/contract legend by clicking right arrow down/up)